Cockerel with port and mushrooms

When you think of so many classic French cookbooks coq au vin always jumps out from the page. The cockerel, jointed, marinaded and slow cooked almost ritualistically. It conjures up memories of dark photographs, mahogany tables and brown bowls. These days however the chances of finding a cockerel to actually…

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Topside of venison with rowan and whisky

Speyside is a place that I’ve always held dear, seemingly less rugged than the west coast where I spent most of my childhood holidays but at the same time majestic in its own way. I always loved coming to Coylumbridge to camp, the soothing sound of the river never out of…

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Pot roast hogget

   As I sit on the plane back from Terra Madre I am feeling humbled, inspired, and reminded of the wonderful produce that Scotland has to offer and the duty to which I am bound to celebrate it. This dish is fairly typical of my favourite type of cooking; take…

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Roast lamb with mushrooms and Marsala

Pot roasting is not in my comfort zone particularly. I tend to do my roasting and stewing in the oven, maybe because it’s easier to leave to cook, go for a run (or a pint!) and forget about it. Somehow I just trust my instincts better with that method. However the boned…

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Rose veal potted hough

There was always something satisfying about seeing those little pots of preserved meat in the butchers. Off brown with a shiny pallor from the jelly they looked like pure flavour in a tub. Except for the jelly. I abhor meat jelly, the sight of it dropping out of a tin…

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Dulse braised Orkney brisket

Orkney is an island I’ve long wanted to visit. From the Neolithic settlement of Skara Brae to the stunning maritime warmth of Highland Park it’s an island that’s always fascinated me. It’s also a collection of islands with an amazing array of food, and I was delighted when I met…

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Rose veal osso bucco with wild garlic pesto

Rose veal really is coming into the mainstream psyche now as a wonderful addition to the repertoire of meats available in British farmers markets and butchers. While this beautiful sweet meat is quite different from white veal, one cut and dish which still speaks only of veal is osso bucco,…

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Scottish heritage recipes – stewed mutton

‘I can’t believe the cook’s belted me again, his stinking beery breath shouting in my face. I only left the spit alone for two minutes to run to the toilet and it’s only blackened a little……’ I often walk in to The Great Kitchen at Stirling Castle and close my eyes, allowing…

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